Make a short template (about 150mm long) by cutting the end of a standard 3m length of cornice. Push it into the angle between the ceiling and the wall, until it fits snugly. Allowing for the thickness of adhesive (3mm), using a pencil, mark both the depth and projection of the cornice on the wall and ceiling on both sides of the corner.

Repeat in all corners of the room, including external corners at alcoves and chimneybreasts. Join up all the corner lines and markings so that you have continuous lines around the walls and ceiling.

Always use a recommended adhesive to fix cornices. For added security nail or screw the cornice to the wall, and where possible to ceiling joists. Try to position the fixing points in a smooth section of cornice to ease filling and making good later. Ceiling joists can easily be found by systematically probing inside the ceiling guidelines with a nail. The cornice will eventually cover up these marks. After considering the pattern repeat, decide the most appropriate starting point and commence fixing. Cut the first piece and mitre the ends as necessary (see cutting a mitre). Spread the adhesive on the back of the cornice where it will be in contact with the wall and ceiling. Then ‘squeeze’ the cornice into the angle between the wall and ceiling on either side of the corner, ensuring it is as ‘tight’ as possible.

The guidelines should just be visible. Hammer in the nails halfway; do not knock them in all the way at this stage.

If you find the wall surface is off line, fix the cornice strictly to the ceiling lines you have marked, where straightness is most noticeable. Leave an approximate gap of 6mm between the mitred ends at the corners so that they can be ‘jointed’ using a proper jointing compound.

Continue fixing the remaining cornice around the complete room. When fixing two straight pieces leave a 6mm gap at the joint and fill in as you would for the corner joints.

Once all the joints are aligned, hammer home the nails below the surface of the cornice and fill in the holes.

Determine the projection of the cornice by measuring from the wall to the line marked on the ceiling. Transfer this mark to the relevant end of the cornice. If cutting an internal mitre, put the mark to the top end; if cutting an external mitre, put the mark to the bottom end of the cornice.

Prior to cutting, position the cornice upside down ie using the floor/workbench as the ceiling. Cut through the cornice, using a wood saw, in line with the markings.

Repeat above process for adjacent wall.

First mix a small quantity of plaster in water, until it has a milky consistency. Cut off a square piece of scrim cloth (hessian), which is about the same width as the cornice; soak it in the mixture. Wipe off the surplus, and using a filling knife or similar tool, push the scrim into the joint. Ensure the scrim is behind the surface of the cornice and then, using the semi dry plaster mix, continue to fill the gap. Clean off the excess using a filling knife, then brush away any loose material with a clean, wet brush. As the jointing plaster begins to set, carve back with a filling knife to create an invisible joint.

Finally, fill in the gaps where the cornice meets the walls and ceiling. Brush away all loose material. When completely dry you can paint the cornice.

Follow instructions for fixing a cornice.

Hold the centrepiece in the position you want it to be, and mark a pencil line around the outside edge.

Using a nail probe within the marked circle, find the ceiling joists. Using a galvanised (or rust proof) nail or screw, fasten to the joists through the lathes in the centrepiece. NEVER RELY ON ONLY THE ADHESIVE TO DO THE JOB.

If you want to have a light fitting through the centrepiece, simply drill a hole for the wires and thread them through.

WHEN FIXING THE LIGHT FITTING MAKE SURE IT IS FASTENED SECURELY TO THE CEILING JOIST NOT THE CENTREPIECE.

Once fixed, fill the perimeter as described earlier.

First of all make a recess in the wall which is 25mm small all round, than the size of the niche shell.

If it is a structural wall, it is important that you check the need for a lintel. If it is a cavity wall, you will need to put a damp proof membrane behind the niche. If you want a small strip light you must, at this stage, position the flex under the ground glass base.

Screw two mirror plates to the base; hold the unit in its desired position, marking the position for drilling the screw holes. We recommend that the wall plaster be rebated by approximately 12mm which can be filled in to hide the fixing points. Drill and plug the holes, then screw the base in position.

Screw three mirror plates onto the back of the shell, one at each side approximately 150mm above the base and the third at the top. Drill the wall as for the base then screw into place.

The niche’s ground glass base sits in the rebate formed by base and shelf AND NEEDS NO FURTHER FIXING. The remaining shelf/shelves are held in place by drilling the shell to receive the white studs. It helps if you draw a line at whatever height you choose.

Fill all around the niche, against the wall and the joint between the niche shell and its base. Fill the rebate with plaster and filler. Clean off excess filler and allow to set. The unit can either be painted or left plain.

Fixing a corner niche is easier and quicker than fixing a niche into a wall. All you need to ensure is that the surfaces of the walls are in good condition. Mirror plates are attached to the unit as above. Fixing and finishing procedures are similar to the recessed niche.

1. Set hearth and back slab in position.

2. Set up jambs, at either side of back slab, to correct width. With the jambs sitting in the hearth, mark the position of the fixing lugs on the wall, at the side of the jambs.

3. Set the head of the fire surround on to the jambs in the correct position and mark the ‘lugs’ on the wall.

4. Drill and fit the plastic plugs into the wall at the marked positions. Cut the plaster away so that the lug projection is recessed into the wall.

5. Put the jambs and the head back into position and screw into the plugs. Make good all joints and fixing points.

If you need any further information, or if you would like advice on which point in your room to begin the work, one of our technical team will be pleased to advise you.